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Fashion Archives - Wildschut - Antiques & Oddities

22 Nov

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Heurtault’s Parasolerie

November 22, 2015 | By |

Screen Shot 2015-11-22 at 17.37.20Parasols & Umbrellas – from everyday object to work of art – Michel Heurtault’s museum pieces from 1750 to 1970 and his latest creations

The whole world is overwhelmed with cheap umbrellas from Asia with only a small artisan business being undertaken in Paris. With specific materials and a unique know-how the small shop offers parasols and umbrellas for all weathers and every occasion. They can be designed for protection against the rain or sun, for a wedding, a historic movie, a haute couture show or for a very particular special exhibition. This is the world of Michel Heurtault. He is Parisian by adoption and has gained an incredible knowledge on umbrellas – as well as acquiring the art of restoring historic umbrellas. Today his skills are deemed to be unique and have led to a worldwide reputation and to various awards, among them the Maître d’Art.

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The exhibition will display more than 400 museum pieces from bygone days as well as his latest creations. On display will be the various components of a parasol or an umbrella from the handle being in ornate shapes such as that of a dog or cat, old lace by the yard or historical embroidery and the framework made of various materials such as whalebone or metal. Parasols and umbrellas can enable us to look back to an evolving history of more than 4000 years. The oldest piece in the collection was manufactured by Jean Marius. At the beginning of the 18th century, Sun King Louis XIV granted Marius, the inventor of the three-way collapsible umbrella, a five-year royal monopoly on the manufacture of folding umbrellas.

On show at the Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel – 24th October 2015 – 3rd April 2016

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14 Jul

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Viktor & Rolf’s Wearable Paintings

July 14, 2015 | By |

Viktor-Rolf-AW15_Wearable-Art-collection_dezeen_banDutch fashion designers Viktor & Rolf transformed broken picture frames filled with fabric into haute-couture gowns during their latest catwalk show, by taking them off a wall and draping them over models.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who founded the Amsterdam-based fashion house, took to the catwalk to assist with completing the outfits in the collection live.

One by one, “paintings” hung on a partition at the back of the stage were unhooked by the duo.

“Art comes to life in a gallery of surreal proportions,” said Viktor & Rolf’s show notes. “A dress transforms into an artwork, back into a dress and into an artwork again. Poetry becomes reality, morphing back into fantasy.”

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14 Jun

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New for Now

June 14, 2015 | By |

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This week signals the opening of a brilliant new exhibition at Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. Entitled New For Now, the origin of fashion magazines, it is a showcase which locates the contemporary incarnation of fashion magazines within an illustrious history – one that, even in the 18th century, showed a surprising parallel to current publications with decrees on the latest must-have carriage and examinations of the outfits of VIPs. Placed alongside commissions from contemporary artists – a Quentin Jones zootrope and Piet Paris images – the show also offers a reminder of the subjectivity of fashion illustration; as co-curator Christian Borslap explains, “Photography affords us the reality; illustration, an interpretation by an artist.”

Rijksmuseum

15 May

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Walter Hugo for Paul Smith

May 15, 2015 | By |

Paul-Smith-Red-Ear-Fall-2013-1-630x371Born and raised in London, Walter Hugo has centered his work on using scientific processes to pioneer the modern development of early photographic techniques. Hugo’s creations are wonderfully laboured, capturing the life of the subject in an unparalleled way and engaging with the history of photography in an entirely contemporary manner.

For the 2013 winter collection of Paul Smith Hugo photographed using a giant pinhole camera. With Walter using a 19th century brass lens, the subjects had to sit incredibly still as the camera had a four second exposure. The developing chemicals were on site for immediate processing and there were no negatives, each image being completely unique. Paul worked with Walter on the final edit and the options not selected were destroyed to leave final eight portraits.

After the photographs were dry, Paul and Walter worked on the colour palette for hand colouring. Walter subsequently painted the portraits to highlight certain tones. The treatment was particularly popular in Japan, where hand colouring was a finely practiced art form.

walterhugo.co.uk

Walter Hugo Beak Street 1

11 May

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The secret possessions of Frida

May 11, 2015 | By |

341992Frida Kahlo’s wardrobe and world is brought to life in Ishiuchi Miyako’s photographs, first seen in AnOther Magazine S/S15.

“If I met her, I wouldn’t ask any questions. I would only want to stare at her and touch her body.” Japanese photographer Ishiuchi Miyako is talking about Frida Kahlo, the subject of her latest body of work. Self-taught Ishiuchi Miyako has been creating powerful and beautiful collections of photographs since the late 1970s, many of them concerned with the passing of time, and last year received the prestigious Hasselblad Foundation International Award in Photography. In her series Mother’s (2000-05), she photographed the personal articles of her late mother, and in 2007, documented the clothing and personal items of victims of the devastating atomic bombing of Hiroshima. Her training in textile design means that she is appreciative of the delicate subtleties of the forms, structures, colours and fibres of the garments she photographs, and also manages to delicately handle the cultural and personal stories woven into them. “She is not somebody who makes decorative pictures,” says gallerist Michael Hoppen, who is hosting an exhibition of her Frida series at his eponymous London gallery, opening in May. “She’s somebody who really does live and breathe her particular stance on life.”

Source: Another Mag

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22 Feb

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Sunday inspiration: Petite Meller

February 22, 2015 | By |

petite-meller-picturePioneering her own self-titled genre, “Le Nouveau Jazzy Pop”, Petite Meller provokes nostalgia, thought and intrigue through the music she creates.

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According to The Wild Magazine she “is the New Lolita of Franco-Pop”. We surely enjoyed her music and video this Sunday afternoon. Read the full Wild Magazine interview.

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Having caught the media eye with her first foray into the pop-sphere, “Backpack” garnered her global attention. Directed by A.T.Mann, Napoleon Habeica and styled by Nao Koyabu, the video offers a plethora of subverted French references whilst recalling Meller’s childhood summers spent in the French Riviera.

 

 

 

22 Feb

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Tim Walker video for Lanvin

February 22, 2015 | By |

lanvin_ss15_wdp.e4689164757.original Lanvin has unveiled a new campaign shot by photographer Tim Walker and celebrating all sorts of family connections.

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“All women are daughters, all men are sons,” say Lanvin; and in the spirit of its last campaign, which took a look at fashion star Edie Campbell’s family (dressing the lot of them up in the Fall/Winter 2014 collections), they’ve continued with more family and friends.

In the new womenswear collections, the mother and daughter shots include Pat and Anna Cleveland, 90s legend Kristen Owen with her daughter Billie Rose Owen, and Violetta Sanchez and Luz Godin. Each image portrays what the brand calls “unspoken understanding,” with the models also sporting some fun makeup looks courtesy of Val Garland. In the menswear pieces the family values continue with up-and-coming male model brothers Callum and Hayden Rockall. Lastly, celebrating the bonds of friendship are Anglo-French DJ duo Josh Quinton and Andy Bradin.

11 Feb

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Buttons Up

February 11, 2015 | By |

10buttons-moroz-tmagArticle“Buttons can be made from just about anything, from elephant skin to raffia,” announces a text on the wall of “Déboutonner la Mode” (“Unbutton Fashion”), a new exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. And it’s true: The 3000 buttons on display, gathered by prolific collector Loïc Allio, include pearls, leather, fur, bone, wood, straw, plastic, Wedgwood and papier-mâché. Petite canvases though they may be, each button is a full-fledged artistic work, created by craftsmen ranging from embroiderers and ceramicists to jewelers and silversmiths.

“The exhibition is about understanding the role of the silhouette,” Véronique Belloir, its curator, explains. “It puts in context what buttons say about fashion, and beyond fashion.” As for the button’s place now, Belloir feels it has withdrawn into something “subtle and discreet.”

“Déboutonner la Mode” is on view through July 19 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris, lesartsdecoratifs.fr2012-48-437-ph1

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Bouton, France, vers 1950, Pearls of glass
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Bouton, Henri Hamm, vers 1910-20

Source: T Magazine

08 Feb

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The greyer, the better

February 8, 2015 | By |

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Everything OLD is new again! As far as this spring’s ad campaigns go, one thing is clear: the greyer, the better. Not Fifty Shades of Grey grey, we’re talking about grey-haired women. So far, we have Joan Didion for Céline, Joni Mitchell for Saint Laurent—and now, Iris Apfel for Kate Spade New York. The 93-year-old fashion icon isn’t alone in this campaign, however; she has Lucky favorite Karlie Kloss (who, for the record, is only 22 years old) cuddled up beside her.

Both are clad in their respective Kate Spade New York styles, with Apfel in her signature eccentric, colorful mix of patterns—though it’s her polka-dot socks that may just take the cake.  As far as personal style is concerned, Apfel can’t be topped.

Source: Forbes

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Joan Didion for Céline image1

27 Jan

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All about Alice

January 27, 2015 | By |

tumblr_mpio2vydOZ1ruvs3io9_1280 Alice in Wonderland Fashion Exhibition set at the Victoria & Albert Museum of Childhood

Lewis Carroll’s little heroine — and her personal style — will be placed under the fashion spotlight at the Victoria & Albert Museum of Childhood in London starting in May. The exhibition, “The Alice Look,” marks the book’s 150th anniversary, with a focus on Alice’s character and wardrobe.

From images photographed by Annie Leibovitz for American Vogue and book covers designed by Vivienne Westwood to Liberty’s spring 2015 Alice in Wonderland-themed fabric, the exhibition will showcase a range of items that reflect the character’s influence on fashion.

Some 40 objects will also be on display, including sketches, designs, illustrations, ad campaigns and film footage of pop videos, and runway shows featuring Gwen Stefani, Avril Lavigne and Aerosmith.

“Not only illustrators, but the world’s best-known designers, stylists and photographers have restyled Lewis Carroll’s Alice,” curator Kiera Vaclavik told WWD. “Versace named Alice as one of his heroines. Westwood returns endlessly to her in her work. We are excited to be showing Alice as a style icon for the first time.”

“The Alice Look” will run from May 2 to Nov. 1.

Source: Women’s Wear Daily

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Alice In Wonderland fashion editorial shot by photographer Annie Leibovitz with model Natalia Vodianova for Vogue US December 2003